Thursday, February 14, 2008

What is the difference between pre-qualifying and pre-approval?

Mortgage Q&A

Question:
What is the difference between pre-qualifying and pre-approval?

Answer:
A pre-qualification is normally issued by a loan officer, who, after interviewing you, determines the dollar value of a loan you can be approved for. However, loan officers do not make the final approval, so a pre-qualification is not a commitment to lend. After the loan officer determines that you pre-qualify, he/she then issues you a pre-qualification letter. This pre-qualification letter is used when you are making an offer on a property. The pre-qualification letter indicates to the seller that you are qualified to purchase the house you are making an offer on.Pre-approval is a step above pre-qualification. Pre-approval involves verifying your credit, down payment, employment history, etc. Your loan application is submitted to an underwriter and a decision is made regarding your loan application. If your loan is pre-approved, you are then issued a pre-approval certificate. Getting your loan pre-approved allows you to close very quickly when you do find a house. A pre-approval can help you negotiate a better price with the seller, since being pre-approved is very close to having cash in the bank to pay for the house!

What is PMI and can I get rid of it on my loan?

Mortgage Q&A

Question:
What is PMI? Can I get rid of the PMI on my loan?

Answer:
PMI or Private Mortgage Insurance is normally required when you buy a house with less than 20% down. Mortgage insurance is a type of guarantee that helps protect lenders against the costs of foreclosure. This insurance protection is provided by private mortgage-insurance companies. It enables lenders to accept lower down payments than they would normally accept. In effect, mortgage insurance provides what the equity of a higher down payment would provide to cover a lender's losses in the unfortunate event of foreclosure. Therefore, without mortgage insurance, you might not be able to buy a home without a 20% down payment. The cost of PMI increases as your down payment decreases. Example: The cost of PMI on a 10% down payment is less than the cost of PMI on a 5% down payment. Your PMI premium is normally added to your monthly mortgage payment.The decision on when to cancel the private insurance coverage does not depend solely on the degree of your equity in the home. The final say on terminating a private mortgage-insurance policy is reserved jointly for the lender and any investor who may have purchased an interest in the mortgage. However, in most cases, the lender will allow cancellation of mortgage insurance when the loan is paid down to 80% of the original property value. Some lenders may require that you pay PMI for one or two years before you may apply to remove it.To cancel the PMI on your loan, contact your lender. In most cases, an appraisal will be required to determine the value of your property. You will probably also be required to pay for the cost of this appraisal. Another way of cancelling the PMI on your loan is to refinance and to get a new loan without PMI.

What is an Annual Percentage Rate (APR)?

Mortgage Q&A

Question:
What is an Annual Percentage Rate (APR)?

Answer:
The annual percentage rate (APR) is an interest rate that is different from the note rate. It is commonly used to compare loan programs from different lenders. The Federal Truth in Lending law requires mortgage companies to disclose the APR when they advertise a rate. Typically the APR is found next to the rate. Example: 30-year fixed 8% 1 point 8.107% APR The APR does NOT affect your monthly payments. Your monthly payments are a function of the interest rate and the length of the loan.The APR is a very confusing number! Even mortgage bankers and brokers admit it is confusing. The APR is designed to measure the "true cost of a loan." It creates a level playing field for lenders. It prevents lenders from advertising a low rate and hiding fees.If life were easy, all you would have to do is compare APRs from the lenders/brokers you are working with, then pick the easiest one and you would have the right loan. Right? Wrong!Unfortunately, different lenders calculate APRs differently! So a loan with a lower APR is not necessarily a better rate. The best way to compare loans in the author's opinion is to ask lenders to provide you with a good-faith estimate of their costs on the same type of program (e.g. 30-year fixed) at the same interest rate. Then delete all fees that are independent of the loan such as homeowners insurance, title fees, escrow fees, attorney fees, etc. Now add up all the loan fees. The lender that has lower loan fees has a cheaper loan than the lender with higher loan fees.The reason why APRs are confusing is because the rules to compute APR are not clearly defined.What fees are included in the APR?The following fees ARE generally included in the APR:Points - both discount points and origination points Pre-paid interest. The interest paid from the date the loan closes to the end of the month. Most mortgage companies assume 15 days of interest in their calculations. However, companies may use any number between 1 and 30! Loan-processing fee Underwriting fee Document-preparation fee Private mortgage-insurance The following fees are SOMETIMES included in the APR:Loan-application fee Credit life insurance (insurance that pays off the mortgage in the event of a borrowers death) The following fees are normally NOT included in the APR:Title or abstract fee Escrow feeAttorney fee Notary fee Document preparation (charged by the closing agent) Home-inspection fees Recording fee Transfer taxes Credit report Appraisal fee An APR does not tell you how long your rate is locked for. A lender who offers you a 10-day rate lock may have a lower APR than a lender who offers you a 60-day rate lock!Calculating APRs on adjustable and balloon loans is even more complex because future rates are unknown. The result is even more confusion about how lenders calculate APRs. Do not attempt to compare a 30-year loan with a 15-year loan using their respective APRs. A 15-year loan may have a lower interest rate, but could have a higher APR, since the loan fees are amortized over a shorter period of time.Finally, many lenders do not even know what they include in their APR because they use software programs to compute their APRs. It is quite possible that the same lender with the same fees using two different software programs may arrive at two different APRs!Conclusion : Use the APR as a starting point to compare loans. The APR is a result of a complex calculation and not clearly defined. There is no substitute to getting a good-faith estimate from each lender to compare costs. Remember to exclude those costs that are independent of the loan.

What is a Rate Lock?

Mortgage Q&A

Question:
What is a rate lock?

Answer:
You cannot close a mortgage loan without locking in an interest rate. There are four components to a rate lock:Loan program. Interest rate. Points. Length of the lock. The longer the length of the lock, the higher the points or the interest rate. This is because the longer the lock, the greater the risk for the lender offering that lock.Let's say you lock in a 30-year fixed loan at 8% for 2 points for 15 days on March 2. This lock will expire on March 17 (if March 17 is a holiday then the lock is typically extended to the first working day after the 17th). The lender must disburse funds by March 17th, otherwise your rate lock expires, and your original rate-lock commitment is invalid.The same lock might cost 2.25 points for a 30-day lock or 2.5 points for a 60-day lock. If you need a longer lock and do not want to pay the higher points, you may instead pay a higher rate.After a lock expires, most lenders will let you re-lock at the higher of the original price and the originally locked price. In most cases you will not get a lower rate if rates drop.Lenders can lose money if your lock expires. This is because they are taking a risk by letting you lock in advance. If rates move higher, they are forced to give you the original rate at which you locked. Lenders often protect themselves against rate fluctuations by hedging.Some lenders do offer free float-downs--i.e. you may lock the rate initially and if the rates drop while your loan is in process, you will get the better rate. However, there is no free lunch--the free float-down is costly for the lender and you pay for this option indirectly, because the lender has to build the price of this option into the rate.What do you do if the rates drop after you lock?Most lenders will not budge unless the rates drop substantially (3/8% or more). This is because it is expensive for them to lock in interest rates. If lenders let the borrowers improve their rate every time the rates improved, they spend a lot of time relocking interest rates, since rates fluctuate daily. Also they would have to build this option into their rates and borrowers would wind up paying a higher rate.Lock-and-shop programs.Most lenders will let you lock in an interest rate only on a specific property. If you are shopping for a house, some lenders offer a lock-and-shop program that lets you lock in a rate before you find the house. This program is very useful when rates are rising.New-construction rate locks.Most lenders offer long-term locks for new construction. These locks do cost more and may require an up-front deposit. For example, a lender might offer a 180-day lock for 1 point over the cost of a 30-day lock, with 0.5 points being paid up-front, as a non-refundable deposit. Most long-term new-construction locks do offer a float-down--i.e. if rates drop prior to closing, you get the better rate.

Should I Refinance?

Mortgage Q&A

Question:
Should I refinance?

Answer:
The most common reason for refinancing is to save money. Saving money through refinancing can be achieved in two ways: By obtaining a lower interest rate that causes one's monthly mortgage payment to be reduced. By reducing the term of the loan, thus saving money over the life of the loan. For example, refinancing from a 30-year loan to a 15-year loan might result in higher monthly payments, but the total of the payments made during the life of the loan can be reduced significantly. People also refinance to convert their adjustable loan to a fixed loan. The main reason behind this type of refinance is to obtain the stability and the security of a fixed loan. Fixed loans are very popular when interest rates are low, whereas adjustable loans tend to be more popular when rates are higher. When rates are low, homeowners refinance to lock in low rates. When rates are high, homeowners prefer adjustable loans to obtain lower payments.A third reason why homeowners refinance is to consolidate debts and replace high-interest loans with a low-rate mortgage. The loans being consolidated may include second mortgages, credit lines, student loans, credit cards, etc. In many cases, debt consolidation results in tax savings, since consumers loans are not tax deductible, while a mortgage loan is tax deductible.The answer to the question "Should I refinance?" is a complex one, since every situation is different and no two homeowners are in the exact same situation. Even the conventional wisdom of refinancing only when you can save 2% on your mortgage is not really true. If you are refinancing to save money on your monthly payments, the following calculation is more appropriate than the rule of 2%:Calculate the total cost of the refinance--example: $2,000 Calculate the monthly savings--example: $100/month Divide the result in 1 by the result in 2--in this case 2000/100 = 20 months. This shows the break-even time. If you plan to live in the house for longer than this period of time, it makes sense to refinance. Sometimes, you do not have a choice--you are forced to refinance. This happens when you have a loan with a balloon provision, but with no conversion option. In this case it is best to refinance a few months before the balloon comes due.Whatever you choose to do, consulting with a seasoned mortgage professional can often save you time and money. Make a few phone calls, check out a few web sites, crunch on a few calculators and spend some time to understand the options available to you.

Mortgage Q&A

Mortgage Q&A

Question:
Should I pay points? Does a zero-point/zero-fee loan really exist?

Answer:
The best way to decide whether you should pay points or not is to perform a break-even analysis. This is done as follows:Calculate the cost of the points. Example: 2 points on a $100,000 loan is $2,000. Calculate the monthly savings on the loan as a result of obtaining a lower interest rate. Example: $50 per month. Divide the cost of the points by the monthly savings to come up with the number of months to break even. In the above example, this number is 40 months. If you plan to keep the house for longer than the break-even number of months, then it makes sense to pay points; otherwise it does not. The above calculation does not take into account the tax advantages of points. When you are buying a house the points you pay may be tax-deductible, so you realize some savings immediately (consult an accountant or tax attorney for advice). On the other hand, when you get a lower payment, your tax deduction reduces! This makes it a little difficult to calculate the break-even time taking taxes into account. In the case of a purchase, taxes definitely reduce the break-even time. However, in the case of a refinance, the points are NOT tax-deductible, but have to be amortized over the life of the loan. This results in few tax benefits or none at all, so there is little or no effect on the time to break even. If none of the above makes sense, use this simple rule of thumb: If you plan to stay in the house for less than 3 years, do not pay points. If you plan to stay in the house for more than 5 years, pay 1 to 2 points. If you plan to stay in the house for between 3 and 5 years, it does not make a significant difference whether you pay points or not!Zero-Point/Zero-Fee LoansWhatever happened to the conventional wisdom of waiting for the rates to drop 2% before refinancing?You have a 30-year fixed loan at 8.5%. A loan officer calls you up and says they can refinance you to a rate of 8.0% with no points and no fees whatsoever.What a dream come true! No appraisal fees, no title fees and not even any junk fees! Is this a deal too good to pass up? How can a bank and broker do this? Doesn't someone have to pay? Whose money is being used to pay these closing costs?No--this is not a scam. Thousands of homeowners have refinanced using a zero-point/zero-fee loan. Some refinanced multiple times, riding rates all the way down the curve in 1992, 1993 and, more recently, in 1996. Some homeowners used zero-point/zero-fee adjustable loans to refinance and get a new teaser rate every year.The way this works is based on rebate pricing, sometimes also known as yield-spread pricing, and sometimes known as a service-release premium. The basic idea is that you pay a higher rate in exchange for cash up front, which is then used to pay the closing costs. You will pay a higher monthly payment--so the money is really coming from future payments that you will make.You can also think of this as negative points! For example, a 30-year fixed loan may be available at a retail price of : 8.0% with 2 points or 8.25% with 1 point or 8.5% with 0 points or 8.75% with -1 point or 9% with -2 points


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PRESS RELEASE

Advantix Lending Unveils New Website Designed to
Help Consumers with Home Mortgage Information

Irvine, California, February 14, 2008 – Advantix Lending, a premier California mortgage company, today announced its new Website containing tools and practical information designed to assist consumers in finding the right mortgage for them.

This new home mortgage portal includes a complete glossary of home lending terms, a question and answer section and easy-to-use tools like a loan payment calculator and debt calculator.

Joseph Sesso, President and CEO of Advantix Lending, stated, “I believe our new Website will serve as an educational tool for people seeking a home mortgage loan and will provide them with a better understanding of how much they can borrow. The new lending portal is only the first part of our strategy for a greatly expanded Web presence.”
About Advantix Lending
Advantix Lending Inc. is a premier California mortgage company with a commitment to superior customer service. We help the consumer find the right home loan tailored personally for them and provide individualized service.

Our vast knowledge of the mortgage lending market and our unique innovative technology allows us to provide you with some of the lowest rates in the industry. The combination of superior processing software, automated underwriting systems and the Internet has allowed Advantix to develop a winning strategy of approving and closing home loans quickly and easily.

Keep the money in your pocket, not a mortgage broker's.

For more information, visit us at www.advantixlending.com, e-mail us at info@advantixlending.com or call us at (800) 238-2684.

Advantix Lending Profile

Advantix Lending Inc. is a premier California mortgage company with a commitment to superior customer service. We help the consumer find the right home loan tailored personally for them and provide individualized service.

Our vast knowledge of the mortgage lending market and our unique innovative technology allows us to provide you with some of the lowest rates in the industry. The combination of superior processing software, automated underwriting systems and the Internet has allowed Advantix to develop a winning strategy of approving and closing home loans quickly and easily.

Keep the money in your pocket, not a mortgage broker's.

For more information, visit us at www.advantixlending.com, e-mail us at info@advantixlending.com or call us at (800) 238-2684.